Campervanning
in Europe. Part 7 Austria 
Vienna
Linz
Salzburg
Route Map Austrian border - Judenburg [125 Kb]
Good
SONPS
19/7/2000 We travelled on through TOLMEZZO toward Austria on
the SS52bis via the PASSSO DE MONTE CROCE (1360M) which is steep and
winding, not suited to vehicles over 10M length.
Soon after crossing the Austrian border, where there were no border formalities
at all, and descending the pass, there are numerous picnic areas with tables,
seats and toilets, that provide good SONPS as well as lesser roadside parking
areas along route 110 and route 100 from KÖTSCHACH MAUTHEN to
SPITTAL AN DER DRAU, which is the first large town in Austria along
this route, and is a good place to resupply. Diesel
was AS10.14 to 10.60 per litre, cheaper than in Italy. It is well
worth remembering the relative costs of fuel in each country so you know whether
to cross with a full tank, or plan to fill after the crossing.
Thence north on route 99 to KATSCHBURG, avoiding the Autobahn for which a special pass is required. We did not buy one and never used the autobahns in Austria at all, and we felt that we enjoyed the country all the more that way. Information from some sources that purchase of a pass is compulsory is not correct.
The road near Katschburg is very steep, 15% grades, 1st gear in the Transit camper in places. Along 99 south of Katschburg there are spars where excellent water can be had, and we found a good SONPS several kilometres north of the town.
Wildflowers near our
SONPS near Katschburg Austria.
20/7/2000 The steep decent from KATSCHBURG to MAUTERNDORF is extremely scenic, with picturesque villages in wide green valleys, vantage points affording almost "aerial" views. Route 96 from TAMSWEG to MURAU follows a large river , and in places small roads lead down to it, and there are excellent SONPS to be had. On the left bank runs a bicycle path and a narrow gauge railway.
All throughout Austria almost every house is decorated with colourful window boxes of flowers. The neatness of the towns and houses reflects the pride that people take in their environment. It is the same in Switzerland and southern Germany, and it is interesting to see the practical effects of the differing cultural values. No roadside litter and excrement at stopping places here!
Beyond here the picture book scenery continues, but there are now few stopping places and no picnic facilities or SONPS as you pass through JUDENBURG , LOBEN and KAPFÉNBURG before we turned north on to the scenic route 20 to MARIAZELL and TRAISEN.
Route map Judenburg - Vienna [197 Kb]
Vienna
We then turned on to route 18 to VIENNA and entered the city through the southern suburbs, following signs to the city centre where, after asking final directions, we found the central station and the inevitable tourist information office. As usual they provided us with useful information and maps and the location of several camp sites close to the city.We camped 4 km from the city centre at "New Donau" camp site (AS220 for camper and two, electric AS40 extra, in the high season) The site has very good facilities, and provides a campers kitchen for backpackers, or any one that wants to use it, good hot showers included. The only drawbacks being a lack of shade and there being no definite marked sites it can get a bit crowded as it is never "full", they just squeeze another one in. This is the closest campsite to Vienna, bus passes the gate, and a station is also close by where you can catch a train and then a tram in to central Vienna. Highly commended.
The Vienna Hoffburg.
Seat of the Hapsburg empire. A small part of the history you need to know
to get a handle on understanding WW1, Hitler and WW2.
After staying in SONPS (boondocking) in most of Italy, we enjoyed our stay and remained at the camp for three nights, the duration of our visit to Vienna. Campsites in Austria are considerably cheaper than in Italy.
From the train into the city we observed some camper vans parked in an area
east of the city, between HAIDSTER and PRATERKAL stations, south
of the DANAU RIVER and the DONAU KANAL, where there are large
parks and recreation areas, and we suggest this area for SONPS. Although we
did not drive to the arera to examine it closely, as it was across the river
from where we were staying in the New Donau campsite, and quite a long way
by road, from the train it appeared to be the sort of area which yielded good
SONPS in many European cities. 
Map Link [104 Kb]
We greatly enjoyed our visit to Vienna, and would have stayed longer if three
of the attractions that we wanted to see had not been on holiday for the summer
. The Spanish Riding School, The Vienna Boy's Choir, and the Vienna Philharmonic
Orchestra were all closed for the holidays. Numerous commercial concerts are
offered by a large troop of about 130 young men dressed in 18th century costume,
that are all over the city centre and approach anyone that could possibly
be a tourist, many times. They want about AS550 for a Mozart concert performed
in period costume.
Instead I bought some CD’s at a music festival at the Rathaus (town hall), as we had a CD player in the van. At last we could listen to some good music when we wanted to. We were disappointed at the geographically patchy and scant availability of classical music on FM radio in Europe, with the exception of Spain, compared to Australia, where each major city has one, or usually two, FM classical music stations. Maybe we aren’t all such a bunch of sport crazed uncultured ockers in Australia as I had been beginning to think? I also bought small marble busts of Beethoven and Mozart for AS127 each. My heroes, along with Scrooge McDuck!
The graves of Mozart
and Beethoven and other great composers in the Vienna cemetery.
On our first days of exploring Vienna we visited the two great composers graves at the main cemetery, where they are buried along with Brahms, Johan Strauss, and Franz VonSuppe, one of the most interesting cemeteries on the world you could possibly visit, and free too.
I admire
the Mozart memorial in Vienna.
As usual I won’t go into details, I presume you know what you want to
see if you visit Vienna, if not just go and ask the tourist information
office. But don’t miss it if you do a camper tour of Europe, another gem.
Route map Vienna - Linz [97 Kb]
Good
SONPS
24/7/2000 We left Vienna along route 3 and by a very circuitous route,
because we became temporally lost, made our way to KREMS a walled town
with a delightful pedestrian mall dating back to the 15000’s, and pleasant
gardens. A nice place to spend time window shopping.
The old town gate of Krems.
A short way west
of KREMS there is a bridge across to the south side of the DONAU (DANUBE)
RIVER, which we took, leaving route 3 which follows the northern bank,
and took the yellow road in the AA map book route 33 along the southern bank
toward MELK.
Just west of the bridge there are beaches on the Danube and park and swimming areas. Some kilometres along , after following the river very closely, the road wanders away from the river by about 100 meters. At 50 meters past the Km27.2 marker a small partly overgrown track leads off the road, just before a series of S bends. The track leads to an excellent riverside SONPS, totally screened from the road. There are numbered bays along the river and the track goes to number 7.
There is a quiet backwater of the Danube, which when we arrived had eight cabin cruiser boats anchored, all crewed by nudists. This was such a delightful spot to stay we decided if you can't beat them join them and we set up camp on the banks of the Danube to enjoy several days relaxation and swimming and the enjoyment of nature.
Our SONPS on the Danube west of Krems Austria - The nudist colony!
It was really hot weather and I enjoyed skinny dipping in the river several times during the day, and just strolling through the forest or sitting around camp. The site has excellent full shade all day from large overhanging trees, and it is a delightful spot to spend a couple of days relaxing.
We even had a visit from another car based youngish male nudist who walked in from the road to sun bathe nude on the grass. Naturism is alive and well in Austria.
The river is divided and there are several small islands which the nudists
on the boats enjoy. Some of the boats remained overnight and next day more
nudist boats returned. We spent the day relaxing in the shaded seclusion of
our parking spot and enjoying Italian wine.
Linz
25/7/2000 From our riverside SONPS we returned a short distance south along 33 to the bridge near KREMS, and then proceeded along the north bank along route 3 heading towards LINZ.On
the northern bank of the Danube on route 3 at the Km 119.5 post (yes they
have markers every 100 meters along roads in Austria) there is the entrance
to a riverside park, where campervans park overnight, an excellent SONPS,
but not so good for nudists, on the north bank, not so secluded. Another good
place is at Km 126.5 on route 3. There are many SONPS along the Danube in
this area, although I prefer the quieter route 33 along the south bank where
the secluded SONPS are.
Beyond this area along route 3 toward LINZ SONPS become much rarer. At GREIN
we crossed the Danube and followed route 1 via STRENBERG to LINZ.
We found no commercial campsites close to Linz, except for a small site catering
only for small tents, mainly for backpackers, which is located in a large
park at the PLESCHINGER SEE, which is about 3-4 kilometres from town
along road 125 and Donaufield Strasse in the north east quarter across the
river from the town. However in this park there are plenty of SONPS and we
parked there on our first night, along with another campervan. 
Link to Map [94Kb]
The lake is a popular summer swimming area with locals and there are open air cold showers in the park adjacent to the lake. Some locals casually shower nude in public as the Austrians seem to have a very relaxed attitude to nudity in such places. There is a public toilet (locked at night) and taps where you can get good water.
Map Link [135 Kb] There is also a large free parking area, with no time
restrictions, where campervans are allowed, very close to the city centre
on the north bank of the Donau (Danube) starting about 100 Meters east of
the NIBELUNGEN BRÜKE not more than 5 minutes walk form the heart
of Linz, over the bridge. There is a Tourist Information Office and a public
toilet (closed at night) on the northern side of the large parking area which
extends several hundred meters along the river front and is about 100 meters
wide. Good drinking water is available from hose taps in the toilet, but bring
a hose with 13 and 19mm screw adaptors to fill larger containers. The area
is signed "No Camping" with a tent symbol, but they obviously don’t mind campervans
and many park there overnight. The police sometimes cruise the parking lot.
There are trees along the river, which provide afternoon shade if you park
in the right spots, and a walkway and bicycle path runs along the river bank.
A pleasant place to Stay.
The Haupt Pletz in
Linz Austria. A delightful, historic and camper van friendly town. Site of
the interesting Sunday morning market.
In the HAUPT PLENZ or town square just south of the NIBELUNGEN
BRÜKE there is a huge flea market held on Sunday mornings at 7AM
through to 2PM. They sell a wide range of new and second hand goods and food.
We spent the morning browsing the market stalls.
The Userlinden Kirche
in Linz Austria.
Although I am not religious, I sincerely admire the magnificent architecture
of the great cathedrals and churches of Europe, of which there are several
fine examples in Linz. One can not have an understanding of history without
an appreciation of the paramount part religion played in both every day life
and in politics in previous times. Still does for a lot of people, but not
me. I subscribe to some humanist Christian principles, Islamic and Buddhist
principles too, without any concern for the dogma of any religion, if in my
opinion they are worthy of the dignity of the human condition, but I don't
believe in any gods. Sex makes a good religion for me, I enjoy all the rituals!!
26/27/28/7/2000 We spent three nights in the riverside parking area, as we found LINZ a delightful town to explore. Compact and with no major traffic problems. Historic buildings and churches, active musical culture, and pleasant walks enable you to easily fill in a few days. In the town square is Mangolds Restaurant which serves vegetarian food, sold by weight, from a self service canteen. Delicious and good value, we ate there twice and can highly recommend it. Linz is the home of composer Anton Bruckner and we attended an organ recital at the church where he was once organist. We commend a visit to Linz as well worthy of inclusion in your itinerary.
Route map Linz - Salzburg [76 Kb]
Good
SONPS
29/7/2000 Leaving Linz on route 1 via WELS, we turned on to
route 144 at LAMBACH to GMUNDEN, thence 145 along the western
shore of the TRAUNSEE a picturesque drive with easily available SONPS,
but better are to be had along route 153 where it passes through forest and
follows a small river, westward off road 145 towards UNTERACH and the
ATTERSEE. Take your pick of SONPS there are lots, look for an old loop
of road on the RHS going west, several hundred metres long where there
are excellent SONPS and we parked on a stone bank of the river. In some places
it is very quiet, although we found no other Austrian nudists here although
I suspect parts of this river would be popular with them. Look for a track
around the 3.3 Km marker, and many others in the next two or three kilometres
also lead to good SONPS on the river.
Salzburg
30/7/2000 Proceeding along 153 along the ATTERSEE there are many small parking places just off the road with an outlook to the lake that could be used for a short term overnight SONPS, plenty to choose from, some even have toilets.At MONDSEE we joined the A1 freeway toward SALZBURG. There are plenty of parking places along this section of the A1 although they may be noisy at night, there is also a large rest area, well signed.
In SALZBURG a good SONPS is the P&R (Park and ride) south
of the city which is clearly marked on the maps from the Tourist Information
Office. Remember how to find a tourist office almost anywhere in Europe? Simple,
follow signs to the Centre, Centrum, Zentrum or whatever in the local lingo,
and then to the Main Rail Station, it will be nearby.
Map Link [81 KB]
![Map Link [81 KB]](austria/Austria%20map%20Salzburg%2001.jpg){kind=link}
Take the Salzburg Sud Autobahnausfart (Exit) from the route 150 to Berchtesgaden to reach the P&R.
There were a dozen campers at the P&R when we parked there, no time restrictions. There are toilets (in a shipping container) and water available. Busses to central Salzburg (15-20 minute trip) leave every 10 minutes. Day passes are available. There is also another P&R north of Salzburg that is only open in the holiday season, in June and July, and which charges modest fees, but has grassed sites for camper vans.
The Mirabell Gardens
in Salzburg, and the castle in background.
Outside of the old city, which is certainly interesting although crowded with tourists, the newer parts of Salzburg are of no interest to the tourist, just plain boring. It is a small manageable city with no major traffic problems.
There is very little in the way of free concerts, most cost 250-500AS, only occasionally free once or twice a week and then very second rate. The city trades mainly on the history of Mozart and the massive music festival in summer. The few free entertainments (2000 season) were mainly repeated solo dance performances, local brass band concerts, and an occasional obscure solo performance. Any free worthwhile classical concert is a very rare event, for a city which so trades on its musical history.
Friends in Salzburg, Mozart and I, and a Cow!. The cow, one of over a hundred around the city, all painted differently, was part of some tourist promotion.
Don’t go for free entertainment, there isn't any, except they play CD’s (audio only) of older performances of classical music in front of the Dom (cathedral) each evening at 1700 hours, were lots of (empty) seats are set up. Wow! At least in Vienna they showed a film of orchestral performances on a large screen outside the Rathaus (town hall) each night. At 1130 on Sundays at the Dom there are sometimes free classical organ concerts, sometimes with solo instrumental accompaniment or a visiting choir, this is as good as it gets for free entertainment.
Never the less old Salzburg is an interesting place to explore and the
convenience of the free P&R makes it an economical place to visit.